The Karakoram Journal

Written by people who drove it this week.

Road guides, itineraries that survive contact with real drive times, and seasonal advice that says no when the answer is no.

Road guide

Babusar or the KKH: which way to drive north.

One road is open two months a year and worth the detour. The other is open all year and will take fourteen hours of your life.

25 Aug 2026
6 min read
Season

Hunza in winter, and what actually stays open.

The highway stays open. The pass does not. Winter in Hunza is quiet, cheap and beautiful, and it punishes anyone who plans it like summer.

18 Aug 2026
5 min read
Season

Deosai by jeep, and when not to go.

Three hours to cover sixty kilometres, at four thousand metres, for about ten weeks of the year.

11 Aug 2026
6 min read
Hire

Renting a car in Gilgit, with a driver.

Self-drive is available and it is usually the wrong choice. What to hire, what it costs, and what a fair quote looks like.

2 Aug 2026
6 min read
Itinerary

Seven days in Hunza, planned properly.

Most seven day plans for Hunza are five days of driving and two days of regret. Here is one built around what the roads actually take.

22 Jul 2026
9 min read
Road guide

The Gilgit to Skardu road, honestly.

Six hours if you leave early, nine if you do not. What the Skardu road is actually like, from the people who drive it every week.

14 Jul 2026
7 min read